You may also remember that I had picked Simplicity 1421 as my blazer pattern. Again, here's my inspiration blazer and my pattern:
However, I've already changed my mind! Simplicity 1421 is an unlined blazer with a construction method that relies on bias binding (i mean the tipping) to enclose exterior seams. This is pretty different from what I have in my tailoring books (well, the library's tailoring books), and I'm going to need all the guidance I can get, so I picked up a copy of Simplicity 2446 in the $1 pattern sale. It is a more traditional style and looks more like the example garments in my books. I didn't pick it the first time because I thought the lapels were a little too wide and the buttons were too high.
These patterns are pretty similar, but in addition to the lining & construction, there are a few differences between the two: 1421 has a center back seam which 2446 lacks, and 2446 has shoulder princess seams instead of 1421's armscye princess seams. I hate all these pockets so I wont be adding any, but 1421 has patch pockets, and 2446 has in-seam pockets (that seem pointless) with added flaps (that look stupid).
Additionally, the sizing seems to be pretty different between the two. For the record, I should be a size 10/12 according to my body measurements. In my muslin of 1421 (yes, I muslined that as well) I made a size 10 A based on a finished garment bust measurement of 35 1/2". I actually really liked the fit on that muslin, so I thought I would try for a similar size on the 2446. Looking for a bust of 35 1/2", I decided to cut out a size 6 B. A six! Now that I have my muslin all made up, I'm not sure if I'd like to size up and make an 8 (A, probably), but I do want this blazer to be fairly slim-fitting.
This is the pattern with no alterations at all in the front or sleeve, which I think is a pretty good start! I took in the back a lot (it was practically straight down originally) but I think I'll let it out a little bit so it is a little less dramatically curved.What do you think about the fit? Should I size up one for ease's sake? And secondly, do you think the lapels are too wide? I was thinking of shearing them back about 1/2", tapering to nothing at the buttonhole, but I can't tell if I've just been looking at them for too long. I should also mention that I forgot my little shoulder pads for these pictures. Oops!
ps: as far as i can tell, you can just move buttons wherever you want to as long as you adjust the lapel roll line. can anyone confirm this?