McCall's 4933 (available on etsy here!!) and noticed that it was not a crop top, as it seemed, but a faker posing as a crop top. I couldn't find it in my size so I did some sleuthing and the back of the pattern envelope shows that it is basically just an extra long top with a big tuck in it--I can do that! You can too! Hop on down below the cut for the full tutorial!
This tutorial should work for any woven, pullover style top--so, your Scout tee, Wiksten or Tiny Pocket tank, etc. We're going to be straightening out the side seams seams, so as long as the shoulders and bust fit you well, anything below the bust won't matter that much. You'll notice that the original pattern (McCall's 4933, I mean) has side-seam bust darts in the front and NO darts in the back, so, pretty boxy.
Step 1: Get your pattern of choice and lay it on top of your tracing paper (I usually align the CF with the edge of the paper so there's one less thing to trace). Trace your pattern from the CF neckline around to the bottom of the armscye (if you have no side dart) or the bottom of the dart (if there is one). I marked my stopping point with that little arrow.
Step 3: Draw a line between the two dots and keep going--this is the new edge of your pattern piece. I did say it would be boxy!!
NOTE: You can be done pattern-making now--just make the line you've just drawn about a million times longer than you think it should be and then once you have constructed your suuuuper long top, pin your tuck into place and sew it down. Your faux crop top is complete!
Step 4: Transfer the seam line of the original pattern onto my new pattern piece at CF. Ignore that mark on the original pattern piece--that's from the original owner, not me!
Step 6: I want my tuck to be 2" deep; I think that is aesthetically pleasing and also functional. You may want your tuck to be deeper depending on your top, keep proportion in mind. Measure up 2" from the bottom of your top, and then down the same distance. Sorry if this is a bit unclear--you will be bringing the bottom line up to meet the top line, making the middle line your faux hem, like this:
Step 7: Measure down from tuck--I have a hard time thinking about this but I think you actually want to measure down from the bottom, not where I have the top of my tuck as shown. You want about a foot, so that you get a secure tuck! Think about how much fabric you want to be able to tuck into your waistband--not just a few inches, probably. Measure straight across the bottom. When you sew your shirt, you can just serge/zig-zag/pink this edge if you want--it won't ever be seen (this top would look pretty weird untucked).
Step 8: Finally, do the same on the back! My pattern looks weird because it is supposed to have a button placket which I've never done. It also has a waist dart, which I'm omitting. I would just trace straight down the side of that zip from the bottom armscye. Match up the sides of your new pattern pieces and transfer the tuck markings from the front to the back.
As for sewing, you'll just sew up your pattern as directed, but it will be super long--then add the tuck by folding the bottom of your shirt into the top (hem through neckline, wrong sides together), pressing at the faux hem, and topstitching around in a big loop along the bottom and top lines of your tuck markings.
And you're done!
Well, actually, post it on instagram and tag me (@helloalliej) because I want to see your creations. Then you're done.
retain the CB seam and add a short zipper if you have a jewel neckline
alter a boxy button-down pattern (archer, anyone?) into a popover,
then use this tutorial to lengthen and tuck it into a faux crop top
add a peter pan collar and a keyhole/slit at the front or back neckline
ps: rock it, girl. you look great.
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