When I posted my pink bow coat, I asked if y'all wanted mostly styled shots, or if you were interested in the "guts" of my projects--so for those of you who like them, here's some progress shots!
I knew I wanted to make a trench coat for the Spring Showers Social Sew, but I couldn't decide which, so I posted two trench coat options--this minimalist Burda and the classic McCalls 5525 (OOP)--on my instagram and y'all overwhelmingly agreed on the sleeker Burda. Burda 12/2011 #118 is from the Sherlock Holmes collection. It's pared down, but still retains enough of the classic elements to be recognizable as a "trench": shoulder flap, shaped pockets, tie belt, etc. It's double breasted, but has interior snaps instead of buttons, which I though was a cool touch (and I have a bunch left over from my pink bow coat, so that's a bonus).
My main sticking point for this one was that it's a Burda pattern. At this point in my sewing career, I don't need hand holding for most things, but the idea of making something (basically) totally unknown, (basically) without instructions, was nerve wracking. I had to install this collar like three times. And... it has welt pockets! What?!
All the flap pocket tutorials I found were this type, and my pocket pieces were a totally different shape, more like an in-seam pocket. I briefly thought maybe I was just supposed to make inseam pockets and then have a decorative flap but a quick glance back at the instructions informed me that was (sadly?) not the case. I finally found this tutorial from Iconic Patterns with pattern pieces that looked similar to mine!
I'm very pleased with how they look. It's still a bit wonky on the inside because my pattern pieces (which I did not add seam allowances too, fyi) are the same size--one should be longer. It's easily remedied, but my pocket will be a bit shorter than it ought to be.
The other tricky part for me was deciphering the back pleat. Unfortunately, none of the versions I could find online showed the back, and the instructions were lacking. I winged it using a bit of trial and error folding, attempting to get the top of my back to match up with the shape of the back neck facing. In the end, I have no clue if this is correct, but it should be functional!
Still to do: attach the sleeves, cut, sew, and attach the lining, hem, belt loops... lots! Hopefully I'll get to show it off here next week...
ps: i still plan to make McCalls 5525; i think it would great in a statement color (um, pink anyone?) or in a creamy, lighter color like this one. perhaps this fall or next spring!
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