A Second Peter Pan Collar Shirt

Here's my second variation on Simplicity 4888, a blouse pattern from c. 1963.

I have been bombarding you with so many white blouses because I often find myself wearing handmade skirts with cheap (but comfy) knit tee shirts from Target. This is a super versatile style that means I can easily step that go-to combination up a notch. Also I have a lot of white fabric available to chop up, so until I tackle knits, this is what you're going to get. You have seen a first peter pan collar blouse here (Butterick 3324), and then the first version of Simplicity 4888 here, and now this second version. Thanks to all these versions, I think I've managed to create a nice go-to blouse pattern.

Now that I have my pattern fitting better, my first two shirts will probably be tossed (after I rescue the buttons). I stocked up on shirt buttons at Joann's so I can play around with this pattern, but I know it can be boring to see the same thing over and over even if they are super useful to make (Renfrews, I'm looking at you) so I wont blog a million of them, I promise.

My issue with Butterick 3324 was tightness across the back, which I think is a lot better in this pattern (it probably helps that while the Butterick was a 30 bust, this one is a 32). It looks a little snug there but I think it's just how I have my arms.

And do you recognize my shorts? We've been having terrible weather (you can see the patch of icy slush I'm standing on) but it was warmer when I took these photos so I decided to wear my me-made shorts (looking not quite so short over tights)!

For this second version, I did a 1/2 inch SBA. The pattern is definitely designed for someone who is either much more well endowed than I, or wearing a different style of undergarment, or (quite possibly) both. My SBA ended up eliminating the bust dart entirely, which is a little unnerving, but I double checked an RTW top I have and it had not bust darts either, so I plowed on. 

Here you can see version one on the left (straight from the packet, no modifications) 
and version two on the right (1/2 inch SBA). 
I think I like the pointed flat collar better, what do you think?

Turns out that this shirt has like NO SHAPE without bust darts--the side seams are totally straight. A Granville this is not! I decided to cut the whole blouse body as one, pinning the front and back pattern pieces together at the side seam. Since I've been french seaming these shirts, this saves me 4 seams and some pressing. If you do this, just remember to mark where the bottom of the armscye is so you know where to match your sleeve seam to! I also sheared 5/8 inch off of the sleeve cap height. No more puff sleeves! I just did this by feel and it seemed to work out, but I probably ought to do it properly and make a new pattern piece for more consistency going forward.

I'm tickled by the fact that my go-to 50's dress is the ever-popular Project Runway pattern, Simplicity 2444 and this blouse pattern is Simplicity 4888, twice 2444! I suppose next I'll have to make Simplicity 1222--Girls' Frozen Coronation Day Anna & Elsa costumes! ...or maybe not.

Have you ever picked a pattern because of lucky numbers or anything?
My favorites numbers are 13 & 42; if I found a pattern numbered 1342 (or 4213), I think I'd have to check it out at least :)


ps: american readers stay warm during all these cold fronts and snowstorms! southern hemisphere readers, spend some time in the sun for all of us snow day sewers stuck inside!

Vintage Pattern Haul (video)

Oh heyyy...

My mom sent me a HUGE box of patterns she found while thrift shopping and I thought I would do something fun and make a video instead of just posting pictures. Recording yourself is awkward and weird but I think it turned out alright, except for introducing myself as Miss Allie like a dork instead of just Allie. That's how I introduce myself while working at the library, and it just slips out. You can watch all the awkwardness here or click through to youtube where I have a couple links, too.

If you want to see more non-tutorial live-action weirdness, leave a like on my haul video, and I'll brainstorm some more video ideas. Maybe I could do some video "modeling" instead of pictures in future blogs?

And here's a list of all the patterns you can see in the video, in order of occurrence!

McCall's 2082 bust 34 (1969)
McCall's 8293 bust 33 (1966)
Advance 9690 bust 34 (?)
Simplicity 7019 bust 32 (1967)
Simplicity 8381 bust 32 1/2 (1969)
Simplicity 7366 bust 34 (1967)
Simplicity 9030 bust 30 1/2 (1970)
Advance 8762 bust 34 (?)
McCall's 9711 bust 34 (1969)
McCall's 6655 bust 34 (1962)
McCall's 2146 bust 32 (1969)
Simplicity 8923 bust 32 1/2 (1970)
Simplicity 7133 bust 32 (1967)
McCall's 2432 bust 32 1/2 (1970)
McCall's 8351 bust 32/34 (1966)
Simplicity 8664 bust 35 (1969)
Simplicity 6970 bust 32 (1967)
McCall's 2421 bust 32 1/2 (1970)
Vogue 7810 bust 34 (?)
Simplicity 8098 bust 34 (1969)
McCall's 8151 bust 34 (1965)
Butterick 4799 bust 34 (?)
Butterick 6288 bust 32 1/2 (?)
Simplicity 9332 bust 32 (1971)
Simplicity 5567 bust 32 (1964)


Some other notes of interest:

SIX of these patterns are jumpsuits/overalls/skorts/things that have pants that should not. Even the Vogue evening dress is actually a short or long tunic with the option to wear either a skirt or pants underneath. I'm sure this was very cool when it was printed.

The last pattern, S5567 has what I would call the "overblouse" or more likely the "tunic thingy" listed as a "weskit." Weskit is a term I've never heard before but it apparently means vest and I presume its a version of "waistcoat."

Leave a comment (either here or on youtube) and let me know which your favorites are! I kind of love the crazy flower power overalls in Simplicity 7133 even though they are totally not the look for me!

"Pointed Flat" (???) Collar Blouse

As part of my quest for wearable vintage separates, I'm searching for a good tried and true blouse pattern. I showed you my wearable muslin (er, wearable under a buttoned-up cardigan with just the collar peeking out) of Butterick 3324 here but I thought it was too small. I posted a couple of sneak peeks of pattern option #2 on instagram so this isn't brand new if you follow me there (which you should #duh). Today I have for you Simplicity 4888:

Zzz new stuff 0017 copy3
As of now, it's still available in a 14 on etsy if you love it like me!

Vintage Patterns wikia has it as "ca. 1963." I didn't see a date on my pattern, but I would say that 1963 sounds reasonable--the hair and styling looks early-60s to me. Disclaimer: I don't really know what I'm talking about. For actual facts about 1963, see Catherine's post here!

As springtime approaches (slowly, slowly) I've definitely been gravitating towards more sweet and girly looks. I had lovely lavender nails (Essie's "Full Steam Ahead") to go with my coral skirt and my new little blouse and I feel quite springy despite my black tights and the fact it was 35 degrees out.

I don't have tons of garment photos since this is more of a wearable muslin, and because I forced my fiance to take them at night before a Doomtree show (you can watch their super creepy new music video here, oh man!) and he was feeling a little conspicuous I believe, so perhaps this post is toeing the line between "personal style" blog--yes, this is what I wore to a hip hop show--and sewing blogging so if you're JUST here for the sewing, #sorrynotsorry. Okay fine, here's some sewing.

The construction of this top is simple and easy, just what I am looking for in a TnT blouse.

I like that it doesn't have a neck facing, and I changed it a little bit to eliminate front facings too.

I like the collar I made, and I'm sure I will like the peter pan collar too. A lot of the patterns Cat has in her '63 post have the same collar as this one. I think it is called a "pointed flat" collar. This one's not a round peter pan shape, but its also not really what I would consider a "flat" collar. You can see it does stand away from the shoulder seams a little bit. I don't know! (I think I'm just confused by the terminology because some peter pan collars really are totally flat! I think Christine Haynes' sewing patterns have truly flat collars, and I have not purchased the Emery dress, despite it's popularity, as this type of collar is not one of my favorite looks. I have nothing against this style, this is just my personal preference, but I would have to redraft a collar, and at that point, I have dresses that look similar sans collar and I may as well just use one of those.)

The shoulders/sleeves fit fine, although I may take some ease out of the sleeve cap next time to eliminate those little puffs. I like the sleeve options and I think it will be very versatile, once I fix my fit issues with it. If you remember, the back of the Butterick blouse was too small for me. I think the back of this one fits better. I'm not looking for it to be very fitted, it's not a fitted type of shirt.

Please excuse the wrinkles as I wore wearing this all day 
and spent some time crawling on the floor as part of my fairy tale club at the library :)

However, look at that front! It's huge! Plan: SBA. Next time you see this blouse, it will be inches smaller in the bust. 

Overall, this is another wearable muslin blouse--but better than the last one. This one I can wear with an unbuttoned cardigan. Baby steps. And I did get a compliment on my outfit from a stranger.

Slightly off-topic: I find it very difficult to find peter pan shirts without puff sleeves RTW. I get why this is, but there are twee things I like (like peter pan collars and bows) and twee things I do not like (ruffles, generally), and then, in a third, special category, there are puff sleeves, which I detest. Peter pan collars and puff sleeves are always paired and they do not need to go together! Thank goodness for sewing :)

Questions for you:
Where do you think sewing blog ends and personal style blog begins?
How do you feel about puff sleeves and other twee details?
And what do you call one of these collars?! I would love to know.



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